Across the street from the gigantic blue eyesore of the Hollywood Scientology building is a delicious brunch spot called Square One. It’s been a favorite of the neighborhood for a long while, but in the past couple of years it’s become exceedingly popular as the restaurant’s Silverlake location remains closed.
Simultaneously, a whole bunch of new restaurants and shops have popped up on Fountain adjacent to this unassuming breakfast spot. When Zach and I went there last, a group of about twenty were crowding the street. We assumed the crowd was for Square One and started to come to terms with the fact that our brunch ritual had finally been found out. It turned out that the crowd was in fact waiting for the doors to open to a trendy oyster shop next door— and Zach and I had no trouble getting a table straight away.
Square One features a classic brunch menu, prepared simply and elegantly, with enough variation on the usual breakfast fare that you’ll surely be scraping the plate. My go to order here is the Salmon Stack— a smoked Salmon Benedict that swaps out english muffins for fried potato pancakes. The perfectly poached eggs are topped with an inoffensive portion of hollandaise, and the latkes are crispy and curly which soaks up the yoke of the egg. They give the option of a side— salad or potatoes— and I always linger on the decision. The thing is, as good as the salad is, it’s nothing compared to the heaping pile of garlic roasted potatoes.
I also appreciate the delicious coffee at Square One, which seems to be a bit underrated. It’s so good that if I’m not hungry, I often consider ordering some to go if I’m in the area.
The food is served on the outdoor patio which has ample seating so even if there’s a wait, it won’t be long. Before the pandemic, you could sit inside their wonderful wood-lined interior, but their outdoor ambience is so pleasant that I usually eat out there anyway.
They have all the breakfast specialties you’d come to expect at a Sunday brunch, including Chilaquiles, which Zach ordered. Despite the modest serving, the chips are thick and filling, and like all the egg-dishes at Square One, the ingredients are super fresh and cooked beautifully. Perhaps the most common order I’ve seen over the years is the french toast— four humongous slices cooked in butter and served with maple syrup— a portion large enough to share.
I am still waiting for the day that their Silverlake location comes back to life, which had slightly different menu and a huge selection of coffee beans. In the meantime, I find myself driving over to Fountain a couple times a month to enjoy the salmon stack and watch as the Scientology conspirators bumble around the outside of this quintessential LA brunch spot.
Square One
4366 Fountain Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90029
Thurs - Mon 9:00AM – 3:00PM
$$
Parking: Street (digital meter)
My order: Salmon Benedict, Iced Americano
Pro tip: This makes for a great meeting spot if you go on Thursday or Friday. Big tables in the back are easy to sprawl all of your work stuff out on, and there usually isn’t much pressure to finish your meal quickly (provided you keep ordering coffee refills).
Pairs well with: Den Antiques (.3 miles), Barnsdale Art Park (.6 miles)